Since taking the creative reins of Calvin Klein just over one year ago, Raf Simons has established a concise group of core design narratives that the Belgium designer has been expanding upon each season. These visual representations of classic Americana culture have solidified the brand as the quintessentially modern American fashion house, all while establishing a feverishly loyal fan base of committed consumers.
For spring/summer 2018, Simons’ second runway collection for the house, the designer expanded on key silhouettes and hallmark accessories introduced in his premier collection – tailored pants, denim, contemporary western button-downs, cowboy boots and quilts – further modernizing these creative narratives through novel fabrication techniques and a newly-established collaboration with the Warhol Foundation; an apt partnership symbolizing the genesis of two Western icons.
There was an underlying duality of happy and horror this season, most appropriately expressed in the pop-centric collection’s visual motifs and methods of fabrication – from fitted, monochromatic rubber separates to giant colorful pom-pom dresses; Warhol, himself, drew sizable inspiration from the concept of creative contradiction, often employing bright colors and the art of repetition to numb the eye to dark, at times tragic subject matter. Case in point, Warhol’s ‘Disaster Series’ from the 1960s, of which multiple images from this iconic body of work appeared on garments throughout the show. At closer consideration, the collection’s silkscreened motifs are the most obvious but perhaps not the most significant connection between Raf’s Calvin Klein and the Pop artist; both Simons and Warhol share in like methods of creation, grounded in their establishment of a trademark visual language from which they continue to build, all while maintaining genuine to their initial creative objective.
References
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Warren McArthur
Armchair, model 20 , 1930
Andy Warhol
Little Electric Chair, 1964-1965
Bonnie Cashin
Cotton, leather and metal Ensemble, 1978
Frank Stella
AGADIR I, 1964
Jean Prouvé
6X6 Demountable House, 1944-1945
Man Ray
Venus, 1937
Yves Saint Laurent
Rive Gauche Spring/Summer 1998
Andy Warhol
Five Deaths on Orange, 1963
Kem Weber
Armchair 1934
Helmut and June Newton
Robert Mapplethorpe, 1970s
John Mason
Orange Cross, 1963
John Mason
Untitled, 1958
Kem Weber
Tubular Chrome Sofa
Louis Kahn
, The Esherick House in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, 1961
Man Ray
Cadeau, 1921
Paul T. Frankl
Desk, 1933
Rosemarie Trockel
Untitled (Amaca, red-white), 2000
References
Warren McArthur
Armchair, model 20 , 1930
1 of 20
Andy Warhol
Little Electric Chair, 1964-1965
2 of 20
Bonnie Cashin
Cotton, leather and metal Ensemble, 1978
3 of 20
Frank Stella
AGADIR I, 1964
4 of 20
Jean Prouvé
6X6 Demountable House, 1944-1945
5 of 20
Man Ray
Venus, 1937
7 of 20
Yves Saint Laurent
Rive Gauche Spring/Summer 1998
8 of 20
Andy Warhol
Five Deaths on Orange, 1963
9 of 20
Kem Weber
Armchair 1934
10 of 20
Helmut and June Newton
Robert Mapplethorpe, 1970s
13 of 20
John Mason
Orange Cross, 1963
14 of 20
John Mason
Untitled, 1958
15 of 20
Kem Weber
Tubular Chrome Sofa
16 of 20
Louis Kahn
, The Esherick House in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, 1961
17 of 20
Man Ray
Cadeau, 1921
18 of 20
Paul T. Frankl
Desk, 1933
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